The weeks roll on and we move the clock to the
very end of March 2011. Soon I have an email from
Vilma stating she is leaving Costa Rica soon and will
be in Foshan in a few days time. I get Candy on board
to help us, making it plain she needs to treat Vilma
as a special client with full support. Arrangements
are firmed and we have an adaptable plan in place,
however in true Chinese style, this will not be confirmed
until the very last minute. I have no worries at all,
as I know Vilma is in good hands.
The story of our meeting is unusual, for she contacted
me last year after searching and searching the internet
for somebody to contact from her ancestral home –
which just happened to be Gaogong (Jiu Jiang) or the
place where I used to live! Apparently her searches
threw up one of my Letters From China, which she read
and then contacted me directly. Our correspondence
has continued ever since.
Vilma’s Grandfather used to own the large building
in the centre of town that is now the main Police
station. I had to go there to register my Certificate
of Residency when I first arrived. Her Grandmother
was a local girl from a village within walking distance,
and now part of the town conurbation. Relatives now
own many local properties – one being a very large
consumer electronics outlet.
There is talk of me helping her to offer her Grandmothers
house as a holiday home for the more adventurous traveller,
whilst we have toyed with the idea of erecting a plaque
on the Police station outside wall extending it as
a gift from the Family to the local people. There
is a Hong Kong connection as Vilma's Grandfather comes
from Hong Kong, and this slightly complicates matters
but it may yet come to pass under the right circumstances
= hence reactivating my old number.
Then the day comes and I get an email from Vilma
stating her meteorological conference in Nanjing has
now finished and she is actually in Beijing – for
she likes to extend her business trips and add in
a period for social time and holiday. I think this
is excellent!
I ring to confirm with Candy; and being China she
simple states that it will all be fine, but the details
are not settled yet. She is waiting for confirmation
from a private driver we know and trust, which will
come tomorrow sometime. Meanwhile I am also aware
that if everything goes wrong, then Candy will drive
to GZ airport and meet Vilma personally – but she
has not long passed her driving test. Now, I know
this, but I do not want to send an email to Vilma
stating: ‘This may happen, or that, or something else’.
It is not what you want to read – so I leave the email
reply until I have firm understanding of what will
actually happen.
The next morning I get an email from Vilma saying,
‘Where are you Jonno’; and I immediately feel terrible,
because she is waiting for me to simply confirm that
everything will be all right. I reply immediately
of course, and then send another email later when
I actually know what will happen = Paul number II
will collect her from the airport, and Candy will
greet her at the hotel we have reserved for her.
This is what Vilma had to say, "The reason I
sent the message saying 'Where are you Jonno?' is
that my visit to Beijing was almost over, I was ready
to fly South and I didn´t have news from you on how
we would meet. I was looking forward so much to meet
you, I was almost about to cancel the trip if you
didn´t show up. But you did show up and your letter
will become my memory in the future".
I had planned to be there with Candy to welcome Vilma,
but my day is extended by business, so I rearrange
to join them late afternoon – and know this eventuality
was always on the cards. I clear my desk by 2 pm and
change quickly to catch the first available coach.
It is a flyer for a change and I make Foshan by 4.30,
arriving at the hotel after visiting the cashpoint
and then booking into a convenient local hotel before
5 pm. I don’t even bother to check the room, as I
know this one well, and at £9 per night, I have no
problems whatsoever!
I then top up my mobile credit, for I am running
on empty when Candy rings me as I arrive; and call
back to find that arrangements are being made, and
I am becoming confused. I sit a while and take a cigarette
before wondering if I shouldn’t be on a bus to somewhere
for the evening meal. Therefore I call Candy again
determined to be going somewhere to meet them. There
is a discussion and I am told to get in a taxi, head
for Namhoi, and call for instructions of where to
go.
I am actually in luck, as the Foshan rush-hour is
moments away, and I hail a cab within seconds. Ten
minutes later and I know it can be impossible! As
the driver comes across and parks, so I have Candy
on the line and they spend 5-minutes discussing where
I am to be taken. Then the phone is handed back to
me and I find out he is a local driver and speaks
Cantonese. He compliments me on my language skills
and we chat away quite merrily as the miles roll past.
We are headed for the area near where ‘Bad-Boys’
son got married, but Namhoi is not an area I know
well, and neither does our driver. However, he does
take me to our destination, and I am told to go and
wait outside MacDonald’s. I wait, have a cigarette,
then another, and wait some more. I am standing near
the intersection in the hopes of finding somebody
driving passed in a car looking for me. Instead Candy
parks where I got out of the taxi and walks across
the pedestrian plaza to meet me. She leads me to the
car where I am eventually introduced to Vilma, and
also Chinese cousin Sarah who speaks quite good English.
I am impressed immediately.
We then take a short ride as pleasantries are quickly
dispensed with, before arriving at a very nice restaurant
for evening meal with the whole and greater family;
including an Uncle of many years who has the seat
of honour, and a little later – the family from Gaogong
and others. Apparently they do this on a weekly basis,
so from this you will instantly realise that Chinese
families and greater families in particular, are far
closer than our western equivalents.
The meal is excellent and typical Chinese, and whilst
I do indulge in a few beers and several toasts, I
refrain from smoking until people are getting ready
to leave, for it seems I am the only smoker in this
private room. I sit near to Uncle, who is a lovely
lad and although it is clear that ages have taken
their toll, he is sprightly and interesting to talk
too, accepting I speak the local language without
a passing thought and merest mention – but there again,
he would have to wait until his late teens or early
twenties perhaps? for mandarin to even be invented!
However, a couple of hours later and the meal is
concluded. People are not drinking except for toasts,
and so we wish everyone a fond ‘fare-thee-well’ and
head back towards Foshan with Candy at the wheel.
We are supposed to be following somebody, except none
of us remembers which car to look for, so we take
a sidestreet, and one that I recognise. I tell Candy
to go ahead, and then turn right, but instead there
is chatter on the mobile phone, as we go passed the
turn. We then turn around and turn left (The right
I had told them to take originally), and following
the microbus, eventually come to an area we all know
well; Foshan.
Candy drops us off at Vilma’s hotel and she waits
while our guest goes to change. Vilma surprises me
by coming down with a bottle of special rice wine
as a gift for me, and I feel quite humbled. So Candy
leaves with a promise to see us all the next morning,
although during the last hour she has developed a
nasty looking red eye. I am quite concerned about
her and Vilma offers her a western treatment before
she leaves. However, we later learn Candy also went
to the hospital (Doctor’s in UK speaking) and was
given a remedy there also.
I have no idea what to do with Vilma, and am very
pleased to learn she does not want to go shopping,
although I would gladly have shown her around. I think
she is too well travelled to bother with such trivia
unless she has a plan. I am also very aware that she
is not the sort of person to take pleasure in bars
and disco’s, although the Musical Fountain remains
a last resort for live entertainment. So we head out
into the local streets and I suggest visiting the
best local massage place for a ‘Foot-washy’. This
appeal’s to her, as it is an extravagance in Costa
Rica, so I lead the way over the footbridge as we
chat while the few short blocks pass.
Then I make a startling discovery – for the whole
block – and I mean half a mile long; has disappeared
and been reduced to rubble. Ok, time to reassess,
and a foot massage is still the preferred option,
so I think of two other very good ones. I know the
best one is in the centre of downtown, and the one
with the best decor is close by, if I can remember
exactly where it is. Neal; you will remember this
as the one next to the hairdressers, and with Japanese
interior.
I think I startle Vilma when I say, “Why don’t we
just hail a cab and see where we end up?”
Fair play to her, for although I can see uncertainty
and doubt clouding her persona, she says she’ll give
it a go!
I actually know we will always be safe to get to
the downtown location, but milk the moment for her
appreciation. We do pass the one road that I am pretty
sure leads directly to the Japanese place, but by
then I am having a great laugh with the taxi driver,
as he seems determined to discover where he is taking
us.
OK, it was my mistake, for I muddled my words and
chose the wrong combination to begin with. ‘Sao Juk’
together means ‘Brother’ in Cantonese, or literally,
‘Hand and Foot’. ‘Juk’ is actually more Hong Kong
speaking, and later we learn that locally it can be
pronounced as I already know, ‘Geu’, or more appropriately
‘Jok’.
I am sure Vilma is wondering what will result, and
if she should call a friend, but then the driver and
I work out what we are doing. The correct phrase is
‘sai jok’, and with that he elaborated with the Cantonese
word ‘massagey’. We have crack’d the conundrum and
we both know he is taking us downtown to the very
best place. I tell Vilma it is sorted, although I
am not sure she believes me 100%.
Within minutes we arrive outside the best ‘foot-washey’
in town, and paying the fare we both ‘High-5’ the
driver. It was a lot of fun, and I think I see a little
respect growing in Vilma’s eyes … or was it sheer
relief?
The massage is actually excellent, and the girl I
have would be great for a boys’ only session. Upon
entering the TV is automatically turned to a western
sports channel, before we tune it in to some relaxing
music and turn the sound down. I broach the rice wine
as Vilma is surprised to find individual computers
as part of each chair. Although we only sip occasionally,
this rice wine is excellent and made with a hint of
fruit, instead of the usual industrial drain cleaning
fluid. Siu Ying then rings me and I tell her what
we are doing. She is a tad jealous at missing out,
but then tells me of Nonni’s day and I hint that perhaps
I will come home tomorrow afternoon sometime – but
nothing is settled yet.
Both the girls are actually very good, although I
think I got the more experienced one unfortunately.
She was a total ‘babe’ however, so I switched the
thought off and tried to ensure that Vilma enjoyed
the experience as much as I did. When offered, I order
an ‘ear-cleansing’ for both of us, but was disappointed
we did not have the chance of a pedicure.
I also missed a trick at the end, for unusually they
hurried us out of the place to go and pay. Normally
we are left time to recover our wits. I should simply
have given the girl the money for us both, but instead
Vilma insisted upon splitting the bill – but that’s
to know for next time; for nothing ever stays the
same in China for very long.
You know, Vilma really enjoyed the experience. I
offered a late night drink of food, but she was obviously
tired and totally relaxed, so dropping her off at
her hotel I let her get to sleep and wandered down
the block to my local hotel. I did toy with the idea
of hitting the streets, but I too was very relaxed
and simply couldn’t be bothered, although passing
up a few real draft beers in nearby DJ Café was a
first for me.
Our arrangements for the next day are a little in
the wind, although there is the though pervading that
Candy will meet us around 9.30, and that I will meet
Vilma a little earlier. I wake at 7 am and loiter
with the TV before the lack of channels gets the better
of me.
Nearer to 8.30 I give Vilma a call to see what she
is up for, and she says she has also been up for a
while and is still feeling relaxed. She bids me come
to meet her and we will take breakfast together. I
had wondered about this, as this hotel does not do
catering
I greet her with my best, “?Hola, como estas?”, for
her default language is Spanish. She then replies
in great style and it takes me a while to work out
exactly what she may have possibly said to me? I think
I understand some of the key words, so reply in English.
She laughs and it is good between us, for she is relaxing
and enjoying time as it passes us both by. I would
add that my typed International Spanish is far better
than my spoken words. A-hem!
I am mystified when she then produces two breakfast
tickets and tells me the restaurant is on the 6th
Floor. This hotel only has 5 floors, so we go up in
the lift to the very top, and then go back down again
seeking clarification. The girls behind reception
only seem to speak Mandarin this morning, which does
not help, but they are quick to foresee the problem
we have encountered, and despatch a ‘boy’ to show
us too the restaurant. He is local and speaks Cantonese,
so at last we have communication. However, it seems
his status is considered too lowly to really talk
to guests, so exchanges remain limited – well, his
job is probably on the line.
It turns out the restaurant is on the 6th floor,
and is accessed by using the lift to floor 5, and
then the stairs. This brings us out onto the hotel
roof, and around to our left is a conservatory set
with tables and one wall of tables offering culinary
delights that were all cooked several hours earlier.
The presentation is as you would expect of an international
hotel, and the views amazing I presume, but it is
raining and cold, so the glass is steamed-up and the
exterior out of sight. For research purposes only
I take a good plateful of various things that would
be on other occasions be considered as sausage, bacon,
eggs, et cetera, in any country other than China.
It was actually all right, although definitely not
of white hat or Michelin guide status. But if all
you wanted was to line your stomach with something
before hitting the road, then it was ample. We actually
got chatting to another patron for a while, but I
will always remember this simplest of meals for one
reason – Vilma asked me what I thought about ‘God’.
It was a simple extension question that came out
of our preceding conversation, and dropped us immediately
into another dimension of mutual understanding. It
was something I answered ‘ad hoc’, for it would take
most of us many lifetimes to even prepare to answer
that particular question.
Now I do believe in a ‘God’, but my first response
to her question was to state that ‘the words of god
that we have handed down to us through millennia;
be they Christian, Moslem, whatever; are actually
the words of men pretending or believing to speak
on behalf of God’.
These are not the words of God him/herself, just
what a man or woman presents us with for their own
benefit. I touched upon my belief that there is something
there, although it may be better envisaged as an all
embodying presence, perhaps created from the soul
or life-sparks of all things. It is within these types
of discussions that quantum theory, religion, and
reincarnation all become one aspect of the same …
mere personal observances of the Space-Time-Thought
Continuum.
One of us then mentioned Buddhism, and so our light
breakfast conversation became quite interesting in
terms of what we actually believe, and what others
would want us to believe so that they could control
us and our ordinary lives as individuals. I suggest
you try it yourself sometime, but an open mind is
one prerequisite.
I am considering going back for seconds’ when the
mobile rings and Candy says she will be with us ‘shortly’.
Overnight her eye has virtually closed, and so much
so that her husband and my dear friend Lawrence has
taken a day off work to drive for us.
I am given to wonder if any modern western citizens
of say: UK or USA; would be so readily accommodating
or accepting of Chinese people?
The plan for today is to meet the owner of the electrical
appliance shop from last evening’s meal and then go
and visit a couple of family houses. We will take
photographs and then discuss business matters with
the family before leaving. Vilma will return to Foshan
tonight, and I may accompany her, or may not – it
depends upon how things go.
With the use of mobile phones we connect with Chen
San (Siew Chon) and he is waiting for us. Note: Cantonese
also use 'San' as a form of address, just like the
Japanese, meaning 'Mr'. We follow as Vilma makes notes
of the roads we are using, so that later we can mark
the place on a Google map. First we visit her Grandmother’s
house, which is a typical rural home that has been
completely refurbished in traditional and local style.
It has been renovated to a high standard, but requires
a few additions such as air-conditioning before we
could rent it out to foreigners. However, the basics
are all fine so Vilma is happy and all she needs to
do is ask for the extra’s to be fitted and it is ready
to rent. With Mr Chen owning an electrical store,
our requirements can be easily met, and at trade price!
Then we wander around the corner to see the second
and larger property. This is a typical Lingnan house
with wok-handled roof. It has double bedrooms on the
second floor, and is still being renovated. Unfortunately
we do not have the keys today, but can tell from the
outside that it will provide excellent accommodation
of a family of pair of couples. The standard will
be the same as the other house, and we have no reason
to doubt or to worry.
Time passes as we prepare to leave, but we do walk
the short distance to the local shops to actually
check what they are selling. The basics are all readily
available and so we are satisfied that guests would
enjoy a holiday here. With this checked, we then head
for Sunday lunch, and Chen San has one special place
in mind for us this day.
The restaurant turns out to be a friendly fish restaurant
on the other side of the river, and appropriately
opposite where I used to live on the island. It is
located several miles down a dirt track and would
be extremely difficult to find if you did not know
of its existence. Mr Chen knows the owner very well
and soon we order three main courses for the barbeque:
chicken, meat, and a large fish that we select from
the pond ourselves.
The rambling bamboo building is ideal for family
gatherings and packed-out. There are easily three
hundred patrons, and maybe many more! The dishes keep
on coming as the central hole in the table is filled
with hot fuel and large woks set to simmer on top.
Side dishes as added and soon we are wishing for a
large table. However what we have is a lot of fun,
and the meal is totally delicious.
I sit next to Mr Chen son who is called Kimmi and
speaks reasonably good English. He also has email
so we can all keep in contact, and offers to act as
driver for our visitors. Then thoughts turn to business
as Vilma pushes for ascertaining for definite what
support her crazy idea actually has. We discuss the
addition of air-con, a fridge freezer, and several
other items that are not currently present. These
are no problem to Mr Chen, and he refuses to take
the money offered by Vilma, stating it is family and
will be sorted out later. She then discusses charges
and commissions, and very soon the business part of
the meal is concluded as we relax in the afterglow
of a fine dining, Hoksan style.
On the way back we detour to the Hong Kong ferry,
so that Vilma is assured it is there and available.
It seems we are too early for the building is closed,
and opens in thirty minutes. Therefore we call the
information number listed on a placard outside, and
speak to one of the people inside. You have to laugh
to keep from crying sometimes.
Later we return to Gaogong where we say goodbye to
our hosts. The next thing on our agenda is to check
the ferry booking and departure point to Hong Kong,
and Candy has researched the one place where this
can be booked; moments from the centre of town. It
turns out to be the local branch of CITS (China International
Travel Service), a trusted and reliable company to
work with.
I had not realised, but there is also a ferry connection
to Hong Kong via Shunde Port, with about one dozen
trips each way, each day. However Vilma is interested
in the local one, so we end up booking a ticket for
her to use in a couple of day’s time. This done we
then go for a coffee at Mona Lisa, the local western
restaurant. The coffee is ok, and the place plus menu
fine – so this ticks off more boxes as Vilma comes
into the belief that foreigners really would enjoy
staying here, even if they missed some of their more
familiar food. She already knows there is a 24-hour
MacDonald’s just up the road, so this is soon wrapped
up and we relax over our drinks – the girls finally
deciding upon freshly pressed local juices that are
very acceptable.
Then it comes time to depart, and Vilma has picked
up unpin the fact that if I catch a coach from here,
then it will save me many hours in the car. I do offer
to stay with her tonight and show her around Foshan
once more, but it is also clear she is a little travel
weary and probably due an easy night to recharge her
batteries. I have already pointed out some places
close to her hotel, like the Red Café; so know she
will have no problems, and so take the offer of being
dropped off at the main road.
As usual I wait on this nasty stretch of very busy
road for forty-five minutes, to catch one of the coaches
that in theory run every twenty. Eventually one of
the familiar lime green chariots comes hurtling around
the roundabout, and is going so fast we have to run
a quarter of a mile to reach where it landed. I am
standing for the first stretch of the journey as the
bus is packed, but I know that by the time we reach
Hoksan or the hinterland that many will depart and
I will get a seat. This takes longer than I expected,
but comes to pass before I am struggling.
This bus is known as ‘the fastest stagecoach in the
east’ for very good reasons, and whilst not a greyhound,
once it has reached cruising altitude it simply continues
to eat up the miles flat-out, as lesser mortals fear
of other hazards on the road.
I actually get a call from Siu Ying as we are preparing
to make a scheduled stop in Hoipeng (Kai Ping City
in Mandarin) and she is delighted to know I am already
on the way home. It seems both girls missed me. Awww!
I get in around 6 pm and head for home, we greet
and do family stuff before I turn the computer on
and start work. Time passes and then I think to check
with Candy and Vilma. I give Candy a call and find
that everything went well, and that Vilma paid her
most adequately for her services these last two days.
Vilma and I had discussed this the night before, at
her behest, but knowing that Candy is happy is all
I need to know.
I then go to ring Vilma, but notice the time is just
turned 8.30 pm, and think better of it – just a feeling,
that’s all. The next day I do ring her and reassure
her that both Candy and myself remain available if
needed. However, she is an independent type and quite
happy to complete the visit herself, which tomorrow
will see her transfer from GZ to Gaogong, and using
the local connection, take the Hoksan ferry to Hong
Kong. You may think her a little crazy perhaps? Well
I do not, for she wants to check this personally before
it is used by any prospective clients.
My premonition concerning not ringing Vilma the night
before proves to be correct, for it appears she was
so shattered from all the great times and travelling
that she returned to the hotel and was asleep by eight
o’clock! However, I did learn that the entrance to
the Foshan Guangzhou metro station is a little further
away than I had imagined, but she found it to be extremely
convenient.
We are in touch with each other several times before
she catches her flight back home to Costa Rica, and
I am happy to know she really enjoyed the experience,
and that the services we provided were far more than
simply acceptable. I will stay in Grandmother’s house
for a day or two, my part of testing whether it is
suitable for travellers, although in my mind I know
it already is.
Time will tell what becomes of our unusual venture,
but meeting somebody from the other side of the world,
simply because I decided to create this website and
write about my small life remains with me as one small
achievement. The bonus was to meet such a lovely lady,
and make a new and lasting friendship.
I also know that for anyone who is an experienced
traveller and who wants to discover the real China
– then what we have in place is perfect. The village
is very rural, yet lies five minutes drive from a
decent sized town where all the necessities for daily
life and pleasure are to be found in bounty. The local
area is a treasure of interesting sight-seeing destinations,
be that a water park for kids, or cultural elements
like the local Buddhist mountain and the Temple of
the Queen of Heaven, which is very close to the village.
We have a private driver arranged, and have bicycles
for those who just want to ride the country lanes.
Big cities like Foshan, Guangzhou, and Hong Kong are
a couple of hours away or less – so the overall package
is very well organised. Add to this being able to
meet the local family and people: Plus having Candy
and other people ready and eager to assist you, and
then I think this is a winner.
However, this is only our idea and it remains to
be seen whether others like our proposal. I hope they
do, for it will invigorate the local town and bring
with it foreign culture to this hidden and unspoilt
oasis of Chinese rural society.
With prices set at USD $20 and $30 per night respectively,
we feel this makes both homes affordable for those
who really want to experience real China today.
Good luck Vilma, it was my pleasure to meet you!
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