Island
Exodus
Regular
reader will know that since the birth of our child Rhiannon (Nonni), and Siu
Ying’s extended stay with her Mother, commuting between our
To this end
I spoke with Uncle Sam on several occasions, and he was very happy to take over
the Island home, which is actually destined to be our
Ten days
later Siu Ying called to say her second brother Yee Lo had been to see a gaff
that he thought was ideal, and half the former asking price, at Y500 per month.
Therefore we arranged to see the place in a few days time = early May. I made
the trip down and waited for Siu Ying as usual at the street bar near Toisan
Number 2 Bus Station. She rang to say something about her Mother, and worried
if I would be ok. I told her no problem, as I was drinking ice-cold beers, and
would continue to do so until she rocked-up.
I was at
the bottom of bottle number 3 when she finally arrived, with Nonni and her
Mother in tow. I had fancied settling in for the duration, but upon arrival she
paid my tab and we were off to view the new gaff immediately. Oh Well!
The new
place turned out to be half a mile down the road, and virtually opposite Toisan
Number 1 bus station – well that is very convenient. First tick already and we
haven’t even crossed the road yet! I already knew this gaff would be on the 5th
floor, that there was no lift - and had accepted this as fact. Living a life of
sedentary persuasion, and basically stuck in front of a computer screen all day
long, I reasoned that the exercise would do me good. Therefore this is not an
‘X’, just something I will have to get my head around, knowing it is also very
good for my bodily health and much needed actually!
The block
is accessed through a secure gateway, and the first four floors have two
apartments each. Arriving at floor 4.5, we are confronted with a very secure
door, which in turn leads to our apartment and the roof. Therefore the roof is
private also = tick!
Finally
reaching the 5th floor proper, we are greeted with a shoe stand
outside the door, and one of the red faced Buddha’s on top who is renowned for
protecting property and money – he’s the one you see at most business
locations. I give him a wink as our agent unlocks the main door.
This place
is great! I love it already, and so does Siu Ying. The door opens directly into
the living room, which measures 24 feet long by 18 feet wide; with a balcony in
one corner (Which I would have preferred to be set along the back wall = half a
‘x’). The main bedroom is a very large suite comprising large bedroom with
fitted wardrobes and cupboards, private balcony, and a bathroom with western WC
… and a real bath! I am not a shower person at all, so wallowing for hours in a
bath is my version of luxury – especially on those few cold winter nights we
experience in this part of
Well, 9
tick’s actually, because it hasn’t got a water heater yet. Opps – make that 8
ticks’s, as the recent re-plumbing job has been carried out on the surface
using modern white plastic pipe, and no cold water tap for the bath. Easily
sorted here for a little money = no problem, if a tad unsightly.
There are
two other double bedrooms located directly off the living room, both with
fitted cupboards/wardrobes, and one has a fancy contraption for opening and
closing mosquito nest attached very securely to the ceiling. This will become
my new office, whilst the other will be for Nonni.
Left of the
entrance leads into a reasonably sized dining room, which has a micro-office to
the window wall. This is actually a separate room that is half the size of a
cubicle of modern computer companies, but I will try it to see it it works, as
the layout is actually excellent. The kitchen lies straight through the diner, with
a door (Good for when incinerating things for guest’s culinary enjoyment), and
comes with a double sink, hob and extractor above, fitted units to base and
walls, sexy black/metallic granite worktops, and is a foot short of being
perfect. I’m giving this around 7 or 8 out of ten!
Left of the
kitchen is a washroom of twice the size (Durrrh!)? This features modern double
sinks and a wall length mirror + has a washing machine similar to our own
supplied free. There are loads of taps and electric sockets in here, so doing
what we want to is not a problem. You could probably hold a ‘Foam Party’ in
here … now there’s an idea (My last was in San Antonio, Ibiza circa 1997). Back
to the Kitchen, and to the right of the door is a small toilet entranced via
one set of half-doors. It contains a corner washbasin affront the door, and a
Chinese-Trap. Siu Ying is very happy, whilst I view it askance.
We then
head outside again and up to the roof. At the top of the stairs are two rooms
that modern British architects would consider to be ample double bedrooms. I
could swing a cat in both of them, but they are locked and full of the
landlord’s rubbish. Then the stairs actually go up and finish with a landing …
that I would call the space beneath the stairs – except it is at the top of
them. Your suggestions appreciated : -)
OK, I’m
going for ‘Open-plan box room’, as it actually is that large. Then we find the
roof is actually the roof of the whole building, and has taps and some
seriously strong iron box sections at either side. I can really see some party
times up here, and the immediate view is of a stand of tall bamboo. Kosher.
We all like
this gaff, including Rhiannon, who hasn’t cried once yet! I’m still
deliberating whether this is in the 80%’s or 90%’s, when I return below, and
notice properly that all the common floor are wood = the click and lock stuff.
Cool! Obviously be kitchen complex, balconies and bathrooms are tiled, but this
edges me onto the 90%’s immediately.
However, I
reserve the right to say yes or no until I see what the local streets have to
offer – this being the main problem with the expensive gaff mentioned above.
So, the main bus station is 1-minute away across the main road. I can’t hear
this from the apartment. There is a massage parlour before I reach this main
road, and upon doing so, there are several shops selling beers and cigarettes.
Just up the road and right are two Chinese supermarkets, and just behind them
is a massive wet market. Another 100 yards beyond them is a Bank (ICBC) which
accepts my personal visa card with no problems, every time! China Telecom is
next door, and the Police station I need to use for registering is in the other
direction and 2-minutes walk from the entrance to our alley. Then there are an
array of street-bars immediately left of the alley and opposite + several large
shops that sell ‘Boy things’ like: tools, plumbing, and electrical items. I
conclude from this whistle-stop tour, that everything we will need for daily
life is within about 2-minutes walk of our apartment … and that is what I call
very convenient!
The three
girls are also in agreement, so a pay Y200 holding deposit on the spot, with a
time set for signing contracts to be around the last week of May. The rent is fixed at Y500 per month, and I
have to pay a deposit of only Y800, returnable when we leave. Cool, and job
done! Sometimes you need to trust your wife, as was the case here; and I am now
firmly committed to our move in a couple of week’s time.
During the
interim period I have much work to cover, which I will briefly detail below. I
also have a contract signing for the new gaff vaguely set for 21st
May – and it isn’t long before Siu Ying rings me to say she has already sorted
out some Toisan removal people, and they are ready to go as soon as we are, and
all for Y550 total. Fantastic!
Clearing Out
I reckoned
I have a little over 2-weeks to sort out our
Is Your
Mind Right?
I once had
the misfortune to work under the most ineffectual and power-crazed of
individuals, who knew absolutely nothing about what he was doing, but whatever
he stated was law – or you’re sacked. I knew very much better, but kept my
mouth totally shut to protect the other employees of this Michelin satellite
production base.
The guys
were cool, and did what was required, including winding-up ‘his lordship’
frequently; whilst I as immediate Manager enjoyed the joke on him. Total
tosser! One of our forklift truck drivers was a slightly rebellious guy called
Nick, although we got along fine together, and even partied after work on
occasions. Anyways, Nick had this habit of swooping by, stopping, and asking
“Is your mind right”, before disappearing in a cloud of spinning rubber wheels.
It can be taken as a British joke, or you can actually get to know him and
reason he is challenging both himself and you.
Thanks
Nick; for this move 2-weeks ahead, I did stop and ask myself if my mind was
right – and it wasn’t. So then I decided to shift the goalposts, as my final
week spent in residency on the island would see me spending time in:
Therefore I
fixed my packing date to be the first event of this series: “Bad-Boy’s” eldest sons
wedding reception – which was scheduled for Monday next and a definite
overnight in Foshan. Fortunately only half of our stuff was unpacked from the
last time, although I did rationalise all the boxes following our last removal.
I spent about 7-days packing stuff, and got it down pretty well – leaving out
only the necessities for daily life eventually. I also made room for most of
this by our living room external door = ideal for removal men to access. By the
time I was due to depart of the reception in Foshan, I had virtually cleared
every drawer, and all I had left were last minute things like: the computer, a
wok and saucepan, a minimal amount of cutlery, and the like. Damn but I was
very pleased with my work, as it was a lot of work actually!
A Week Before
Feedback
tells me you enjoy when I relate the stupid things that happen in my life, so
lets break from my virtually packed Island Home, and see what Serendipity and
her half-sister Fate had lined up for me during the week prior to moving:
Monday, 17th
May 2010
Wedding
reception for “Bad-Boy’s” eldest son, location – Foshan, arrival = ETA no later
than 6.30 pm.
You should
be aware by now, that things either work in
I made the
ferry fine, except for the fact that it was now raining quite heavily, so an
umbrella was an essential requirement. The local Chief of Police is also on
board, and he starts talking to me in Mandarin??? It actually takes me a short
while to place him, and he is usually wearing a uniform with lots of badges and
Bath Stars on it. A fellow standing nearby pulls out his mobile phone, and
moments later offers me a single word translation “ Passyport”. Ah Hah! He is
concerned that I may forget to obtain my new visa and register. I show him my
Temporary Certificate of Residence, and point out my visa expiry date of 20
May. He appears satisfied, as I then inform him in Cantonese that ‘I go
The ferry
slows as we approach land again, and the cloud passes before we have finished
docking. At the top of the slip road there are several motorcycle taxi’s
waiting and I tell the guy where I am going and ‘bussy’ 255. He understands
immediately and soon drops me at the relevant bus stop. The hot sun is now
beating down and I am soon dry again. I made it here by 4.18 and the bus should
arrive soon. They run every 20 minutes and I am only a couple of stops from the
terminus.
At 4.45,
one bus number 255 stops across the road, and before it pulls out another with
the same number overtakes it. Whilst I ponder the implications of this, a third
bus number 255 passes on the other side of the road. This is definitely not
good, and I know I will be waiting here a fair while longer. Sure enough, it is
5.15 when the bus finally arrives at the stop, and a lot of people get on. I’ve
been stood there for 3 minutes shy of an hour, and some of the other passengers
were waiting before I arrived at the stop. The problem I now face is that as
the time approaches 6pm in Foshan, so the traffic becomes increasingly
congested, and time will therefore continue to slip for the rest of the
journey. With increased traffic, this puts my eta back to nearer 6.30, but no
problem as I already know all Chinese wedding receptions actually start at 7.30
pm, so still an hours drinking left before proceedings’ begin in earnest I
conclude.
I still
haven’t managed to get a final destination out of Bad Boy, as Foshan is a city
of some 4 Million people, and has several districts. My intuition tells me this
will be Nanhai Gui Cheung, but I have no confirmation. Bad boy send me a txt
message in Chinese of my destination, which I am to show to the bus driver. I
wait until we hit a set of traffic lights and am just about to rise from my
seat, when my mobile rings. It is Uncle Sam from Hong Kong, calling to say he
will not be able to attend tonight’s function, and can I make apologies for him
= my pleasure of course. However, the 15 seconds the call lasted, were enough
for the lights to change, and I have to again start preparing my mobile to show
the driver come the next opportunity.
Uncle is
one of those people that appear to have perfected the art of ringing me at
precisely the wrong moment, and he is always very accurate in this respect.
Whilst this call was important, it could have come anytime over the preceding
36 hours, or a couple of minutes earlier or later. Same difference. However, I
now know my next chance to approach the bus driver will come in 7-minutes time
… presuming the lights are red at that road junction? Fortunately they are, and
I show the disinterested driver my destination, and he points to the roof;
indicating I should listen out for the announcement on the bus tannoy system.
Well it is in Mandarin and Cantonese, but is turned down so low that I can’t
actually hear it because another nearby passenger is shouting into her phone …
continuously. What on earth do females find to talk about for so long? She is
actually at it for over 1-hour! She’s
actually droning on in Mandarin as well, so I only pick up stuff about family
and … some sort of shop? She is seriously annoying all the same, and I am not
alone of passengers giving her stares of increasing hatred. However, she
battles blithely on and is totally unaware of the havoc her incessant yakking
is having upon everyone else on board. I notice a couple of people adding
earpieces and turning their personal music up to the highest setting.
Meanwhile
we enter Foshan city proper, and people continue to board the bus. The girl on
the phone starts shouting louder because everyone aboard is having to speak
loader to overcome the sound of her monologue. Hardly anyone gets off, and
there must be 30 people standing. The guy directly behind me gets a business
call, and he also has to shout to be heard by the caller. I can’t hear the
tannoy at all now, but have taken to studying every bus stop and reading the
characters. So far none of them look remotely like the address given in the
text message, but I do not worry. Therefore when Bad Boy calls to ask me where
I am? I conclude the time now must be 6.30. Correct, and I can’t see anything
out of the left side of the bus at all, as this is masked completely by the
thronging crowds aboard, whom sway precariously at times. Undaunted, I reply
that from my seat, I conclude I am now in Nanhai Gui Cheung, and going around
the bit that will become the new metro station. The bus appears to be doing
some sort of ‘W’ shape, with loops and turns that come close at times to
retracing where we were 5-minutes ago. He ends the call by stating that he has
to sort out the wedding cake, as there is a problem with the supplier. Oppps!
If I have a problem I should ring So San. Great!
I do another
15 minutes of bus, and conclude that whilst my inbuilt ‘Boy-mental-map’, knows
roughly where I am, I actually do not know the present area at all – and we are
headed out of town! Fortunately the
thronging masses have thinned slightly and I can now see all the sides of the
bus and out of the windows opposite. I am looking for the customary list of all
stops that all city buses show on the inside just below the ceiling somewhere.
Correction: all excepting this particular bus. Oh Well! The driver occasionally
looks me askance, which could indicate I am still ok; or could mean I should
have got off half an hour ago. What with the stupid girl and her mobile I
really don’t have much in reserve any more. I could do with a long, cold beer
and a couple of ciggies - Oh, and she is still yakking away as I write … that’s
coming up to 1.45-hours now, and we all hope and pray her battery dies soon!
I decide
that worry is overcoming me, as we are definitely headed into the wilds of non-populated
areas, so give So San a call. No reply. I then call Bad Boy = no reply. I
decide to stick with it and stay on the bus, still checking every bus stop for
any characters that remotely resemble those of my text message. Then Bad Boy
calls back and asks why I did not call So San instead? I say I did, but this
appears to pass by without connection. He wants to know where I am now? I’ve
had this one before you know, and on a bus where I was somewhere I had no comprehension
about. Now to me, if you ask a stupid question, you are going to get a stupid
reply. Fair’s fair so they say. I inform him that Nanhai Gui Cheung is 15
minutes behind me, and that we are now going along a road that has a restaurant
on it. He tells me to get off the bus immediately. I do so, and find the bus
itinerary conveniently placed on the outside … which has the characters for my
destination as being 3 from the end of this route. I think I am at stop number
7 from the end of the trail ... Good call!
I follow
the bus without a hope of re-boarding again, but just knowing it is actually
headed in the right direction. Then a second bus number 255 passes me, having
virtually caught up with the first one … and these run at 30-minute intervals.
Hey-ho! It’s one of those trips then! I watch both turn left at the next set of
traffic lights, and hail a cab quite easily. I show him my text destination,
after speaking it also. He presumed I was speaking Mandarin (Of course), and
then we chat in Cantonese as we travel the half-mile to my destination –
catching up with my bus as it departs the stop we pull into.
My dear
friend Bad Boy is waiting for me as we pull in, and after swapping greetings
and apologies, he escorts me into the main hall through the back entrance. I am
seated at table number 3 = the top table is for the wedding party, and second
for the Groom’s family and friends. The third table is for honoured guests, so
I try to behave accordingly – with much success.
As in the
west the other side of the central way is given over to the Brides family, and
then honoured guests and friends in reciprocal order and depth of tables and
relativity. There are about 40 tables, meaning four or five hundred people. The
main screen is displaying wedding photos and videos that cost a bomb, backed by
well chosen music. I am officially introduced to the other members of our
table; many of whom I already know quite well, plus a couple of new faces. One
turns out to be the ex-Principle of Sun Yat Sen University of Zhong Shan – one
of
So San and his crew are also at this table,
and we engage in polite chit-chat before he moves on and one of his “Sparky’s
(Bright lights), who’s name I never can remember “, engages me in intriguing,
if slightly irrelevant dialogue. I work
out he has a pass to drink tonight, and mark his card already.
You could
guess already that I am the only smoker at this particular table, and probably
the only alcoholic also. Bad Boy and I have probably only known each other for
less than a year, but we have a lot in common. It is my honour to be invited to
this special occasion, and so I am on my very best of behaviour when introduced
to his long-suffering wife, and she is self-assured enough to know not to probe
me about what we get up to when she is not around. Oh, and in case you wondered,
he is also about 10 years older than me … which I find highly encouraging!
Some of the
most important people are late – and this is a Chinese wedding tradition by the
way = so done on purpose. Mainly this consists of the Brides family and closest
friends. Bad Boy tells me that there is a delay, and he reckons things will be
underway around 8pm. They have this thing that is similar in many ways to a
western church wedding, where the happy couple do not appear at their banquet
before all guests are seated (The important ones at least). Also bear in mind
that this will be day three of a traditional Chinese wedding ceremony, and they
will already have done a lunchtime session before retiring for a few hours
respite. After this evening’s gig, they will continue in private; but tonight
represents the public highlight of the wedding.
Meanwhile
Bad Boy introduces me to his Number 3 son, who is a little shy and very nice.
He would be called ‘Sam Lo’ except he is the youngest of the three brothers, so
inherits the alternative title ‘Si Lo’, meaning little or smallest
brother. His English is quite competent,
but he appears to afraid of making a mistake to speak properly to me – what a
waste, although I do coax some engagement out of him. His best friend, who is theoretically
on another table, is a joy by comparison, and the first person I find all night
(Bad Boy excepted), who like a smoke and drink. We get on very well, to the
point of arranging to meet on another occasion to take the night forwards.
Unlike western wedding receptions, this one will wrap up within a couple of
hours, and there will be a small pool of drinkers left, who won’t be in any fit
state to continue for very long.
The lights
dim, drums roll (Really!), and the young couple appear at the head of the large
Hall. She is resplendent a western style white wedding gown, with full
petticoats, train, and young cherubs to carry it; whilst he is sporting a
western suit and tie. There are some serious video cameramen recording every
step and glance, whilst other photographers snap shots at will. They are
heralded down the central walkway by these recordists, whilst the Brides side
of the walk is occupied by perhaps 20 beautiful girls (Matrons of Honour), and
the Grooms side by a corresponding number of ‘Likely Lads’.
I have
described other Chinese wedding before, so will not bore you with the intimate
details of this one – just expound upon some highlights. They do the ‘George
Best champagne thing with multiple-stacked goblets, cut the cake, pose for this
and that. There are a couple of small speeches, of which as Father of the
Groom, Bad Boy’s is the most important. It is short, and he introduces the big
boss of
Regular
readers of this column will note my missives regarding
Needless to
say, the fine presentations soon gave way to some of the finest food I have
ever tasted, and to continuous toasts of fine wine, beer, and rice-wine. On
this occasion the Groom was actually drinking neat spirit (Often water or
diluted), and was well on his way by the time we crossed glasses. By
comparison, his beautiful Bride came just after sporting special Tea,
properties of which include health, happiness, longevity; and a pre-hang-over
cure. Spot-on already”!
Having just
drunk at least 40 shots of rice wine in about 20 minutes, it is no wonder the
Bride and Groom departed post-haste. Most tables emptied immediately after, but
I was of a mind to stay a while … well, I had not fixed any digs for the night
yet, and it was still young. Sometimes the younger ones head for a club or
Karaoke, but on this night we had Bad Boy’s elder brother adopting me. He was
well-wrecked before coming to our table, and then toasting me with a whole
glass of this rice-wine – or insanity fluid – a liquid substance I would
consider worthy of clearing badly blocked drains with! Si Lo and his friend
quickly gave up, and so Uncle decided to have a very deep conversation with me
in whatever language he was capable of uttering at the time? Then his daughter
(Actually his sons’ wife) rocked-up, and she was not impressed with either of
us, although she did eventually work out that I wasn’t wrecked, and her
‘Father’ was. Badly so, and she couldn’t carry him out as he was a big lad - so
I did. Well, job done and handed over to staff and the taxi driver, so I rejoin
the fray, only to find everyone is drunk. I’m not actually, and indulge for a
while before heading for the door to find a take-away, and a bed for the night
in Downtown Foshan.
Miracles do
happen!
I go
outside and jump into a waiting cab, in the middle of nowhere. I tell the
driver where to go in local Cantonese, and he understands me immediately. It
would appear that no less than 30-seconds later I am back in Foshan, and dumped
outside the hotel I wanted to use tonight. I get a room with no hassle for Y90
(I only need to crash here), and head for the streets without bothering to
inspect the room = well, a rooms a room.
I first try
the Moslem nosh place just around the corner, only to find the actual owner is
there, and he likes me. He is a young Indian guy who has lived on these streets
for 8-years … and we never, ever met before. I’m not quite with this, as I have
walked these same streets for 6-years – but what the hell. I ask him for a
Chinese ‘ham-bo-ba’, which I know they sell, and get delivered free of charge,
a round pot with curried fish soup. I conclude that the polystyrene tub is
round, so something must have got lost in translation between British English
and Indian English. Hamburgers are also round ; -)
This stuff
is excellent, and well spicy. I make a note to try it again … when I want to
eat it. Meanwhile, I need a hamburger and chips, and I need it now! I look to
KFC at 11.30 at night – which should be closed already. Whao! They have just
gone 24-hours, and I fill my boots with: 2 x large fries, a zinger burger, one
of their dodgy curry wraps, and a large Pepsi. I order some nuggets for an
aside, but this comes with some sort of sweet fruit sauce, and not the chillie
one I was expecting. I decide to dunk them in the suspicious curry/chillie mix
of the kebablette thingymagig. Back in Blighty this would be a Doner Kebab
moment, but this does the trick in modern
I then head
off to see the girls at my favourite ‘Foot-washy’. This is just across the road
and right a bit. They remember me of course, and immediately find me a room and
proffer drinks and eats of my liking. A Chinese girl enters, and we don’t seem
to get along – basically because she only speaks Mandarin, and I don’t. The
radio-controlled manageress drops by to confirm things and asks if I would
prefer a ‘Special Girl’. I say ‘Yes!’ immediately, as this already isn’t really
working for either of us. In case you wondered: A standard girl is basically
untrained and not considered a professional (At washing feet). A Special Girl
has many talents, including being very good and professional at washing feet.
Now I already know what you are all thinking, and it isn’t necessarily so.
‘Personal Services’ or intimate massage are available, but they are always
called anywhere in the East ‘Extra Service’.
My new girl
arrives promptly, and she is a total doll. She speaks fluent Cantonese, and is
from Siu Heng (
Boys are
actually very simple creatures, and Number 78 would be marryable – given I did
not already have a wife and child. Sometimes life is like this. However good as
she was, this girl was no where near as good as my wife …
Well, I
have no idea where the hours went to, but I remember arriving back at the hotel
around 4am, totally trashed and having eaten something somewhere else en-route?
Evidence of the day-glow pirate outside my hotel window convinces me this is
now the next day of my life. I eventually find my phone, only to discover the
time is now: 7.32am. I therefore decide that today is not happening, and I am
not going to ShenZhen at all (Hate the rabid city anyways). I conclude that my
only reason for going was to meet Gawie and Petro, and they did not reply
positively to my planned itinerary, and no message either. Therefore today I am
headed-off to see the only other woman in my life (Whom my wife approves of) =
going off to see my dog!
This is
great, because this plan lets me spend a day or two at home; when everybody
else invading my world: excluding my wife, child and dog; thinks I am somewhere
else. Cool!
At 7.47, So
San calls me and asks if I would like to share Chinese Morning Tea with him. I
say yes, and we meet 30 minutes later. This tea will actually be in Gaogong,
and as we drive so we finally get down to discussing some important and very
pressing business issues. I come away with the distinct impression that whilst
he and his team remain very interested, there is no perfunctory way forwards. Well,
that is unless I personally do all the legwork, business plans, and show them a
business model based upon real investment returns. Given that I appear to be
the only person in this stupid country capable of creative and new thinking, I
have a problem with this – as these people always refuse to pay for my services
… so I have decided to leave them to it, and they can take my ideas without any
basis of fact or implementation, and make what they will of them. Not a lot I
remain sure.
Having
discussed, rather - toyed around with business initiatives for an hour or more,
I am left feeling that something at a very basic level of commitment is lacking.
So San drops me at the ferry point and then debarks his Nissan top of the range
whatever it is with gold bits on the outside, to wait for his 90-year old
Mother to cross from the island. As usual, the ferry is on the opposite bank of
the river, and this in its turn confirms my commitment to having a firmer base
of transportation in the near future. It appears I am invited to their morning
tea, but this is actually a family affair, so I choose to ignore the
half-hearted invitation, and instead choose to take the ferry homewards in
order to spend this time with my dog.
Island Retreat
This island
home has always reminded me of a retreat from the hectic schedules of normal
life, a place of peace and tranquillity from where I can go about my personal
business without the need to adjust my crazy internal body clock to the
routines and demands of others. I also wonder how many of you readers can
truthfully say that you have lived on an island? I don’t mean for a couple of
weeks vacation, or somewhere you may have needed to work. I mean to actually
live for many months on an island as your only home? It does alter how you view
the world, especially when travel is restricted by weird ferry timetables. This
morning I am relaxed and waiting for my hangover to begin. I am offered a lift
home by a 12-year old riding a Suzuki, which I gratefully accept. He is
actually a very good rider, and I have just made his day – something to tell
the other kids at school.
I walk the
last few yards to my gate, and am greeted by a large black and white jumping
machine. At least, this is what Be Loi has turned into upon my arrival. She
squeaks a lot and licks me anywhere she can. I had bought some large tins of
Pedigree dog food, and add biscuits for her breakfast. Then I check her water
is ok, and have a quick wash and change. The time is around 10 am, so I decide
to take a wander and see if the island ‘Hair-washey’ girl is open today. As
happens she is open, so I have a 1-hour hair-wash and associated massage. Be
Loi hangs around and makes new friends, whilst half the locals passing by drop
in to say hello. This is my first visit, and it is extremely good … and all for
Y10, or a quid to you in Blighty.
I am a
little surprised Be Loi remains with me the whole time, as she usually heads
off and does her own thing. Obviously she has missed me, and this makes me
uncomfortable thinking forwards to the imminent decision I know I must make
concerning her future wellbeing. We go to the local shop just around the
corner, where I buy several reels of seriously strong box type Sellotape. We
then meander back to our home.
I make a
coffee and fire up the pc, whilst Be Loi stays with me – usually she finds my
computer work very boring, but this is an exception. I don’t actually do very
much except check emails and reply as required. I plan what work I need to
complete before moving, as I don’t have much internet time left now, and may be
offline for a week or so in the immanent future. I also plan my immediate
routine. There is no email from Gawie yet, so my decision not to head for
Shenzhen (SZ) was the correct one. I must leave China Mainland on or before 20th
May, which is a Thursday. Today is Tuesday the 18th, and the theory
is to sign contracts on our new gaff in Toisan on Friday 21st. Then
there is Be Loi to consider, and this means I need to be here immediately after
So back to
the travel logistics: I much prefer travelling by ferry, but the single ferry
from Hoksan to
Be Loi
comes for a fuss, and I look round at all the boxes and clutter still left up
here. The room next door is similar, so I decide to take an easy day and do a
little packing, do a little on the pc, and every time I go downstairs, to take
a box with me. This works out pretty well, and I also retrieve our two larger
boxes from under the stairs – one for the TV and the other for the Washer
(Washing Machine). They are damp and a little musky – as this home has been
very damp for months now. I decide to dump the TV box, as it has passed
usefulness. The washer one is about ok, and ideal for quilts, pillows and
similar – bulky items that are not particularly heavy.
By 10pm I
have done great work, and there really is only a little left now. I’ve also
decided that my mega suitcase is ideal to take the woks and pans, plus large
and bulky breakables. Most of the boxes are double Sellotaped, and put ready by
the front door. I’ve virtually cleared everything in the kitchen, and whilst
some of the boxes remain open, they are packed and ready to be sealed
immediately. I just don’t know my exact plans for the week-end, and need some
things easily to hand – like curry powder for instance. Meanwhile the home is
perfectly functional still, so I am very pleased with the current balance – and
cook pork curry with rice for myself and pork steaks with rice for Be Loi.
Maybe this is one lucky dog! I unplug the refrigerator, as it has frozen up
again and fall asleep on the couch watching a Jet Li movie in Cantonese on the
movie channel.
Wednesday
19th, and maybe the day I need to go to
I potter
around for a while, reducing what is left to pack noticeably, and during a
coffee break, conclude that I should by a couple of large Chinese carriers for
any last minute items. They are cheap, strong and durable, either made of a
sort of plastic Hessian, or of sturdy plastic. This noted, I then check the beers
and put a couple in the freezer. Upstairs I have some work to do concerning the
website. I have added the ‘1 Word English’ section, updated many pages
recently, and also added quite a few other new ones also. It is time to update
all three sitemaps: One for Google, One for every other search engine, and one
for surfers with disabilities. This takes a couple of hours, by which time the
beers in the freezer are well cold, so I decide to sample one. Returning to my
desk, remember to get out my Hong Kong Dollars for tomorrow, except I have less
than $1 all in shrapnel. Putting it back I then finish the box and seal it. I notice an email has arrived from my
excellent webhosting company Vidahost. It is Dominic stating he has now created
a new sub domain for me on a different server from the main website; and one
that will run anything to do with php. I have been trying to get my new
community pages operational for many weeks now, first trying a package from
Elgg. This was excellent, except it basically didn’t work. Their server
specifications had turned out to be ridiculous and only suitable for running on
a dedicated server – and those things cost a lot of money. I had therefore
binned it, and tried one that was equally as effective by Dolphin. However,
this comes with some company advertising which I don’t like and find annoying. It
is free, but necessitated certain database extensions, so hence the move to
another server that has everything. I therefore spent the next couple of hours
adjusting the settings from the admin control panel, and uploading my profile,
some pictures and a short video. It works similar to Facebook, and I can
probably live with it until a better solution presents itself. I will try Elgg
again on this server, just in case miracles happen, as if it worked properly it
would be far superior to Dolphin.
This work
completed, I then upload a few pictures to my Gallery, noting that since the
original move to a new server some 2-weeks ago, the Thumbnail thing isn’t
working. We had this after the original installation, and I have a quick look
and end up spending the rest of the evening searching through online
documentation for a clue to the problem. I’m pretty sure the problem lies with
‘ImageMagick’, but I’ve had enough server side stuff for one day – so decide to
play some music and chill for a while. I actually play some from the website,
thus checking the links still work in the process. This is not a big problem
now, but it was originally as both Ku6 and Youku had a frequent habit of
changing the links often. All the music links appear fine, although I am aware
some of the film ones need updating. I pull up the film page and try a couple
which are still good. Then I click on the film Ip Man, one of my favourites
that is based upon the true life story of Foshan’s foremost Kung Fu Master. I
end up watching it and indulging in a beer too many. Ho-Hum! Much later I cook
beans on toast for myself, and Be Loi enjoys a packet of beef balls with rice.
I waken
around 8am feeling a tad groggy. This was definitely not part of my plan and I
hope I have not already set the tone for the day? I have to be in
I’m
actually in a bit of a pickle here, as I already know the village shop doesn’t
sell anything that may help me, so I need to be imaginative about Be Loi’s
diet. Cracker! They have a new bunch of smoked and dried bacon hanging up above
the counter. These are a bit like streaky bacon that is one inch deep, by about
a foot long. They are Y10 each, which is a good price; so I buy three of them
and a can of tinned fish. That should do it!
Back home I
set the rice to cook in my saucepan – I really can’t do rice-cookers at all, which
is why I have already packed the stupid thing. I then chop up the odd sort of
bacon and set it to slow fry. As these are cooking away, I sort of get my head
into gear, and a coffee works wonders. The Hoksan ferry will get me into
Next,
packing: do I need to take anything? Not sure. I decide I am bringing back
copious tins of corned beef and jars of Hellman’s; so will take the rucker.
Into this I empty half a carton of cigarettes, a tee-shirt, and a plastic bag
(For wronkey socks). Ahha! I add some clean socks also, good boy : -)
My packing
done, I then dish-up for Be Loi, as she hates warm food, and so I stir things
around with my trusty 1920’s knife. Time to check the clock, as I am not very
good with ‘Time’ thingymagig on the best of occasions, and as I am still well
hung-over, this can’t be one of them. It’s 9.40 already – how did that happen?
I doubt that I will make the 10am ferry, so the next one leaves at 10.40. Let’s
see – does that work? That’s 10.55 on the shore; 11am at the bus stop; allow 20
minutes for the bus to arrive (Runs every 20 minutes); and 12.20 into Foshan,
and then a 5-minute taxi ride = Foshan Hotel business centre desk (For ferry
ticket) at 12.25. That works for me, except I am then hanging around the Foshan
hotel for an hour. Let’s check: the next ferry leaves at 11.20 (You may now be getting
the hassle of this ferry thingymagig?) That means 11.35 at the bus stop, and up
to 20 minutes for a bus = 11.55. That’s got to be 1pm in Foshan and a few
minutes to get a ticket = 1.10pm. That’s the one I need! Therefore I need to
leave where I am now at … 11.10am, or in … 1 hours time! How did that happen?
Oh yes, I had a couple of phonecalls in between, and had a shave and changed
clothes. The beans on toast I ate last night appear to be working extremely
well - so well in fact that even Be Loi gives me a derogatory look. I’m well
impressed, but then I am a boy. I decide to have a shower as well, and it is at
this point in time that the extra hot chilli sauce I mixed with my beans last
evening, decides it is time to leave my personal digestive system for the world
at large. This preoccupies me for the next 40 minutes with virtually no
interruption, so the shower doesn’t happen due to imminent and pressing time continuum
constraints – Let me explain E=MC2
regarding baked beans and boys … E = the Effluent that must be released form a body’s
personal system via one means or
another. M= Mass, or the quantity of food eaten the night before + gaseous,
liquious, and other solid substances that combine to form the basic elements
for digestion. C2
corresponds to the amount and severity of Chilli/Curry sauce imbibed the night
before – whose effects next morning are squared. Particle Physics, Boys, and
Einstein have now been explained to you.
Finally
over the worst of it, I check the clock to see it is now 11.05. I’m out of
here! And I am within 3 minutes actually. Be Loi is very not-impressed with me,
but this trip is a must do, so see you in about 48 hours sweetheart. She howls
as I make my way up the road, but I did give her the last doggy chew, so that
should keep her occupied for most of the day. There are two reasons I lock her
inside by the way. The first is that she is used to having food for several
days, and does apportion it. With the outside gates open other island dogs
would eat it all within a few minutes – she is as laid-back about stuff as I
am. The other reason is that she would lead me to the ferry, and not stay on
the island. This would be a nightmare scenario!
I note Miss
Serendipity is accompanying me again, as 5-minutes before leaving the heavens
open and down comes the rain again. I mean, it is coming down in buckets, so I
actually take an umbrella with me (Almost unheard of for me personally in
Landing I
walk up the ramp, and there are no motorcycle taxi’s again! This is about four
times out of the last five – annoying. I walk to the nearest main road, which
is not a direction people would normally walk, and there is little traffic. I
keep walking and after a few minutes a motorcycle hoots me from across the road
as he is passing by. I wave, and he appears with due haste at my side. I don’t
know this one, but he understands me immediately and so we set off into the
heavy rain – he ensconced in his weather-all, and me enjoying the free shower –
I should have brought some soap with me and finish the job I tried before!
He wanted
to take me to the central bus station (A bit of the busiest part of the main
street actually), whilst I chose to over-ride him and get dropped off at a bus
stop instead. My reasoning was that the coach departs the centre of town at
11.37, and takes about 3 minutes to reach this stop. The time of my arrival was
11.38, so I felt I had got it right.
Nope! I was
waiting for the blue bus, as this one goes into Foshan city … and it never
came. Time passes, and I consider my options; but it really is very wet
everywhere just now, and this bus stop has a nice shelter overhead. At 12
o’clock a yellow coach passes me flashing his lights and tooting his horn. I
wonder? Then 5-minutes later the blue bus finally arrives and I board … only to
find this now goes direct to Guangzhou, and does not stop anywhere near Foshan.
The other buses (All operated by the same company) are a pukey shade of
metallic green, and definitely only go to
I still
have it in the back of my mind the last yellow bus was actually not just
touting for business, but probably recognised me and my intended destination.
Hmmm?
At 12.15 a
local charabanc rocks-up, and I board it in order to go to the main bus station
(Not the town one), where bus 326 lives. These run every 5-minutes, but not
really to the part of Foshan I want to be in. Yet, they would drop me a short
taxi ride away, so this is my new chosen option. I’m still feeling like shit,
so am perhaps being quite stupid about things, but we are all human and
fallible at times. We arrive just as bus 326 pulls out, and no way to board it;
then as I take a seat in the waiting area, the yellow bus passes outside along
the main road hooting his horn. Thanks!
I am
already resigned to this being ‘One of those days’! I am not wrong, as it takes
exactly 12 minutes for the next 5-minutes interval bus to depart. Leaving I
note the time is now 12.30, and whilst on a good day this would work, I have a
growing suspicion this bus will arrive in Foshan just too late for me to make
the ferry connection. I consider that I am very stupid, as I could have sorted
this quite easily and much earlier by going to a different bus stop. However,
it is very wet today, and I am very hung-over still.
Our route
takes us passed a junction near Le Cong, and I note the Ramada Hotel off to one
side. This is a proper 5***** star hotel and ideal for business people. I make
a note to get a decent picture of it sometime + some information for my
website. The bus then follows the access road and passes through the next major
junction, stopping to pick nobody up. As it pulls out I suddenly realise that
the Ramada Hotel also offers shuttle service and ferry booking for my destination.
I think to rise and get off, but this opportunity to pull my schedule around
has already passed. Wally!!!
Look, I am
usually with these things, but I simply am not functioning at all today. I am
very annoyed with myself now on two counts, and know I will miss the ferry
connection, as time continues to elude me today. Therefore, having got just
about every call wrong today, I try to wake up my indolent mind and focus on
the task at hand properly. 1: Will I be in
I am about
to get into some serious self-berevation, before I am forced to admit to myself
that I F****d-up and there is no one else to blame for my present predicament
but me. I still think I am stupid, but I also have this persistent hang-over
which is going nowhere, and do need some more water quite soon. The bus makes
up 5-minutes out of nothing, before we lose 10 others due to roadworks. Ho-Hum!
Finally I
am in Foshan, and the bus drops me off 5-minutes walk from my destination, at
1.35pm. All Foshan taxi’s this time are either full or missing. I walk it
quickly and note a Shunde ferry charabanc is waiting at the far side of the car
park – except it has no driver and is parked. At 1.42 I am in business
reception, only to be told I am 3 minutes late, and the next ferry connection
leaves at 4.30. I am not stressed and accept this, and book a seat on the 2.30
pm coach instead. You should be aware that I also do believe in fate, and
sometimes you are destined to miss things for a seriously good reason … except
we can never see our future. Being late this day may have saved my life for
instance – but I do not know that future, only the one I personally travel.
The waiting
is excruciatingly boring, but the hotel has provided seats and I continue to
endure; as my mind finally starts kicking into gear for today. ‘Hello! I could
have done with you around a little earlier today’ and it is then I am reminded
I got drunk whilst watching Ip Man last night, and went to bed just after 2am.
Thanks!
When I
booked the coach ride, I was asked if I anted an aisle or window seat. I
replied that I wanted one with the most legroom. This was seat 42, and there
were only 8 other people on the coach. Unfortunately one was sitting in the
other large seat across from mine, and seemed worldly wise Hongkongian. I’d
already ballsed-up today so far, and just wanted to sleep. I have no idea who
this guy was, but had the distinct impression he wanted to talk to me … a lot.
Therefore I took another seat designed with Dwarves in mind, and endured what
was to come – well what with the ergonomically designed seats that were
fashioned for primary aged bodies, and headrests that finish at your shoulder
blades, this was not going to be my gargantuan version of comfort. Having
recently watched the re-run of the Shrek movies on local TV, I am beginning to
consider we have a lot in common, especially regards
This coach
is ok, but the scenery has changed again, and we are going the long way round
of course. There is often discussion about if the future is set, or can be
changed. I will argue either point of view, simply because it pleases me at the
time. I owe this ability to my earliest best friend Rex, who was a bugger like
that. However, I am also inclined to think that the past is not set either, as
a couple of outstanding instances in my life do tend to support this hypothesis
– but rather than be sectioned immediately, I’ll keep stumm and let you work it
out for yourselves. And this in turn means that the present is a time of flux.
Anyways, I have 2-free bottles of bus water, and have the end of a movie to
watch if I am so inclined. They just leave it running nowadays and don’t bother
resetting to the start of this or another movie upon departure. This one is a
Kung Fu flick, and is in Cantonese and OK. We then suffer 30 minutes of bus TV
advertising – not for the faint-hearted, before some stupid Chinese ‘Soap’
comes on, which is in Mandarin. I do manage a few ‘Z’s, but the excruciating
discomfort of the ergonomically designed child seats easily makes this
impossible. However, I have discovered that if I sit sideways with one leg
under the seat in front and the other draped over the central isle, then I can
actually fit my personal bulk – more or less, into this confined space. A 52
seater coach with seating for 68; and 9 passengers aboard – makes me wonder?
Then I discover that by draping my shoulders over the headrest of the seat in front,
I can actually avoid any contact with the atrocious lumbar support that is
distorting my spine insistently and pummelling my lower back (L4 region). Ah!
That’s a lot better.
I actually
start to nod-off, and then Shenzhen happens. This is one of my most disliked
cites in the world, and I’m not really sure why; I simply prefer to be anywhere
else. Fortunately this school bus is taking the new way into
Having
waltzed through Customs, I find trap 19, then stop outside for a smoke. I note
the coach drivers are doing the same nearby. A staff rushes up to me and checks
my sticker, then confirms I want to go to Kowloon Downtown. I confirm, and she
realises I know what I am doing. Finally I seem to have gotten my act together,
and a shame I wasn’t this many hours earlier. I finish my cigarette and deposit
the butt in the conveniently placed receptacle on the other side of the
walkway. Our driver does the same and follows me aboard. As we depart I take
any seat, and check my phone before I get 20 text messages from the
I am not
sure where we will arrive until it happens, but consider I should be very close
to the visa place. Ok, so where do I sleep tonight? Well, I really like the
Best Hotel, and especially one of the Philippino housekeepers – for absolutely
no reason except for the fact she has the most very interesting chest,
accompanied by a very intoxicating and beautiful smile. I’m not going there! It
is a little out of the way for what I need to be doing anyways, so I will try
Cheung King Mansions again. And anyway, I want to ask the guy who always seems
to be there, how the
Meanwhile
the gigantic coach with micro-seating has arrived at Prince Edward, which
should be the first of only two stops. However, the driver is gracious and
drops people off according to their destinations along
I am not
sure whether to bother even going to CITS (China International Travel Service)
at the bottom of Nathan Road, as I am sure they will either be closed or not
accepting new applications this late in the day. I am dropped off at the last
stop, which is 30 yards from a cash point (ATM) that I know works with my
version of an international visa card; and this in turn is 100 yards away from
CITS. I decide to draw cash first, then check CITS with no hope, but it is
opposite Cheung King mansions, so worth a minute. Meanwhile I am very up for a
beer and some food, so Café Fontaine, here I am coming!
Well tickle
my tits till Tuesday! CITS is still open and I can apply tonight. This saves me
one whole 24-hours with nothing else to do in
… The guy
who spoke earlier, but who is also very busy behind his personal counter, calls
out to me and enquires if I am ready yet? I say I think so, and go back into
waiting mode looking at the literature. He then asks if I want to have my
photograph taken, and I say ‘No – why?’ He then goes to talk to the girl
processing my application form, and she calls me over. Wow! Things are
progressing at last, because this is usually very quick.
She hands
me back my photograph and then explains in 99% perfect English that the system
has changed and they no longer need me to provide a photograph. Instead they
take one that is digitally entered into the system, which is compatible with
the visa issue people – and I need to go and do this ‘over there’ – the other
guy is waiting with a camera to take my photograph, so why do I have a problem
with this?
Well, the
other guy was actually tapping away at his keyboard, and where you pointed to
‘over- there’ was not where the photo screen is, and I didn’t even realise it
was a photo screen until a few seconds ago. What is it with all this shit? You
can communicate to me in either English or Cantonese, and I will understand.
Stating stupid things without relativity will only make us both annoyed … and I
perceive you are actually trying to close very soon.
Ahha! So
that’s what this is all about then. I’m very pleased you actually bothered to
inform me. Then I note that on the distant wall is a blank sheet, which upon
closer inspection turns out to be the backdrop for portrait photography. Wow! I
never knew this or saw it before. Thanks guys, now we are on the same
wavelength. Why didn’t you say we need to take your photograph, and tell me to
get to the back wall – which is nowhere near ‘over there’!
Within a minute
I am out of there, after checking my receipt and correcting the 30-day validity
to 90 days … the only reason I have this visa. This is such a big bonus and I
feel things are finally going my way. I go directly to the gaff across the road
and am delighted when Johnson recognises me and we agree terms for the night.
This time I get a proper room, but the price has now risen to Y175 per night =
excellent! I book and pay for two nights, literally throw my ruck-sack in the
room – and am orf (British slang for ‘off’, or whatever language our Queen
speaks).
Keys in
hand I board the lift and there are a couple of Germans inside. I say “Guten
nacht’, and they reply to me by speaking a lot of German. Interesting? I reply
to them in schoolboy German, with odd English and Cantonese words scattered
about for effect – basically communicating I am British. They switch
immediately into very good English, and I wonder … however, they accept my
initial offerings as given, and are grateful for a little advice concerning HK,
as this is their first ever visit. Eventually the lift opens I we go in
differing directions – nice people though, and I stifle memories of John Cleese
(Basil Faulty)’s excellent skit from
I make Café
Fountaine around 7.25 and am immediately recognised as a regular. It is raining
in HK also, and not a lot is happening tonight. However, my two main objectives
of this day have been dealt with, actioned accordingly, and I decide I deserve
a pint. I sit an my mind waxes lyrical, and I feel the need for a ‘Dictaphone’
or similar recording device. I do have these moments quite frequently, but can
never, ever replicate them when I come to write these missives. I also need a
good quality camera to capture what I am rabbiting-on about, and think vaguely
about investing in a new mobile telephone?
Mama espies
me and hustles over for a cuddle, before we chat and catch-up. Then she is
busy, so I chat to a couple of Nepali waiters in English, after first greeting
them with ‘Namaste!’ I am very happy drinking draught
I am coming
to realise that whilst I have developed into a quite personable and interesting
personality, I am also extremely happy to be left on my own. I would have no
problems left cast adrift on a dessert island, and wonder at the theatrics of
Tom Hanks in the film Castaway?
Entering
Cheung King Mansions at around midnight, I see one of several food retailers is
still open for business, and after looking at a few offerings, I decide upon a
take-away of ‘sheep’s curry, rice, and chips + extra paratha’. It is very good,
and as I lay my head down to sleep, my mind wanders and wonders about my girls,
and especially Be Loi…
I awake
every hour from 4.30 onwards, and as I have absolutely nothing worthwhile to do
today (Except collect my new visa), I try and prolong going outside until
midday. Johnson is still at the desk outside my room, so I cadge a mug off him
and make a coffee. I actually give him a sachet as I will not drink all of my
supplies this trip. He is a little made-up, and then we chatty about how well
the
Hanging
around in cheap hotel rooms really isn’t my sort of thing, but I manage to
stretch matters out until almost midday, before sheer boredom gets the better of
me. Today’s plan is what?
I decide to
walk as this will use up useless time. However ten minutes later I am in ‘Yau
Mai Choi’ = whatever, and I find myself walking along food wholesale equipment
street. This is going to be a very long day, so I stop outside of a beautiful
rest place where smoking within is banned, and so perching upon the wall
outside, I light-up. I reflect that yesterday time was always behind me = a
catch-up. Today time is well ahead of me, and determined to remain so. Well,
I’ve made it to 12.26, and hoped it was 2.26, but that’s life I guess.
Why am I
here? Well last time out an electrical retailer tried indifferently to sell me
a totally crap deep-fat fryer for $HK750. I want to know what the commercial
sector offers in comparison. Given I have other ventures in the fire, I am also
seeking to find a supplier of quality stainless kebab rotisseries – but perhaps
this is a British thing?
Given that
the nearest placed, and handily placed trash bin is located over the street and
far away – I consider this venue to be one of those places set-up for Police to
do you for throwing your cigarette butt away – they purposely do this in HK to
make revenue by the way. I stamp on my butt, and put it into my cigarette
packet with great aplomb – they are watching me, I know! Sometime I promise to
regale you with my views about ‘Smoking’, but these are destined not for this
missive. Rising from my seat I notice a ‘White Van’ pulls away just up the
street. Better luck next time guys – but shouldn’t you have a word with
yourselves about what actually constitutes a crime, and what does not? They
have just confirmed my suspicion that the number 1 crime in
This
stupidity dealt with, I proceed to browse the commercial kitchen fixtures and
fittings outlets, and there is some pretty fine merchandise hereabouts. The
general offerings on deep fat fryers are strictly commercial, and range in
value and price. All are brushed stainless steel, and have a full range of
controls. The one I like best is deep and not wide, but only does 200 degrees.
Many stores offer a wider version that goes up to 300 degrees, and this one I
want. Price: $HK900. Cool!
However, I
am actually on the trail of an outlet that sells kebab rotisseries, and having
tried a dozen stores already only to be met with blank looks, this is not
happening. However, I have not crossed
I walk
passed the only other store worth visiting on this side of the road, before my
premonition kicks in and I begin to wonder about the phrase from the last
store: ‘Difficult to find’? I backtrack, as I am getting into understanding
Chinese real meanings by now, and am left to wander around. They have already
sussed out I am British, but immediately appear when I am drawing a visual
blank. “What do you looking for?” That works for me so I try to explain in
simple English what a Doner kebab rotisserie is. This takes a few minutes,
before she totally understands, and then she shows me to the device facing my
back. Woah! That’s it! In my defence I do say it was well hidden by other more
saleable items, but it is exactly what I was after. Then she beckons the owner
over, and apparently I can have one tomorrow – mains gassy, bottle gassy
(options) or electric. I’m flabbergasted! Totally perfect! We swap cards and
calling details and this is a done deal. I get a rough (And un-negotiated
price) of $HK 4k = £350 or something, and am well made-up. And this shop is
exactly next door to the last one; and know you should understand Chinese speaking
properly, because I almost missed this one outlet entirely – except for a
nagging doubt.
I’ve now
made it to 12.47, and it is very hot and humid today. I stress about how to
waste even more time, as I reckoned this bit to be worth more than a few
minutes and certainly over an hour. I vaguely head for
I take time
to take snaps of such things as:
I am
wandering to kill time again, and get a subway (British English for tunnels
that pedestrians use to cross the road, but underneath it), and end up in the
new
The exit is
one I know well, and is still being built/finished. I am on the correct
pavement (Sidewalk in American) to get straight to China Ferry. The directly
connecting footpath has been handily divided by temporary concrete structures
that can allow two people without baggage to pass under the sheltered section;
or one person without baggage to pass on the outside path. This is a tad weird
then? There are no seats anywhere of course, and I think HK Tourist Board may
be missing something here – perhaps I will write to them at a later date. I spy
a pylon thingymagig, whose concrete base is ideal to sit upon. Done deal, as I
am knackered! It actually takes me a couple of minutes to rest to a point where
I can stretch my limbs and muscles, and start to feel better again. I could
seriously do with some water also, but it is more expensive than petrol in
modern
Recovering
from my ordeal, I get round to lighting-up and enjoy the carbon monoxide buzz
as it hits my system. This cigarette tastes pretty good too, so as I consider
moving slightly so that I can place my feet on the ground – so I am hailed by a
young guy who is asking if I know where China Ferry is. Yes I do sunshine, and
you are going in the wrong direction. He is not quite American by accent, so I
presume he is Canadian? He also lights-up as we chat, and I offer to take him
with me to buy his ferry ticket –seeing as we are both headed for the same
place and I know where it is, and he doesn’t.
Whilst Hong
Kong is a central hub for all travel within
Neither of
us can obtain tickets to our destinations, as it appears the whole of
My
companion is into the automotive industry and appears to be: good, hot, and
hassled. An ice-cold beer later and his equilibrium returns, and we have a
great time talking about whatever. The beers flow and we have something to eat
also. He pays out bill, which is most gracious of him, and in return I
accompany him to the main railway station and see him safely onto the platform
entrance. That was very interesting, and Canadians are great people! I am
heading off to collect my new
Unfortunately,
by this time my mind and body are completely out of sync, and so I return for
another beer or three. Having eaten earlier than I would normally do so, I have
a buffer that allows me to drink, yet is not enough for me to sleep. I chat
with staff and other patrons, order a baguette, and try to get myself
re-orientated. A very beautiful girl takes the table next to mine and
immediately strike-up conversation. On any other day this would be heaven,
however I am approaching being three-sheets to the wind by now, and whilst
giving her my card; make my excuses and make a swift exit! Damn!
Out on the
street and I look for something to do. I decide to check out the local phone
shops, as I want a new mobile with: solid state = no flip, switch, turn, extend
functionality. I want and excellent camera, and the ability to record voice.
Memory is important also, and we are talking 4 Gigabytes or better. Apart from
that I expect it to make and receive calls and txt messages – and that’s about
it really, except it being as small as possible. Oh, and I do need it to have a
physical wire connection to my computer, as my previous experience with
Bluetooth are a load of bollocks! Meaning I need to move Folders, not one
thousand individual Files … one each time!
One likely
lad takes me up when I visit his emporium, and we have a very good go at it.
Basically what I want is a better version of what I already have – except Nokia
haven’t bothered to make this. I end up buying a smart mobile that has an
excellent camera with flash, zoom, modes, and video record (8.1 Mpx), and voice
recording facility. It also has a removable 8 Gb card that works with my laptop
already, but only one sim card. I buy it for $HK3k, and walk out with it
already speaking English. That would be just after 11pm then, as the shop was
closing, but closing this sale first.
Later I
rock-up at a MacDonald’s somewhere? before heading back to my gaff for the
night. Outside an old girl and her elderly Mother appear determined that I
should have a massage with them, and whilst the thought of a massage appeals,
having sex with either or both of them is explicitly required – and definitely
not on my personal agenda. Gently releasing her death-grip of my left arm, I
politely retire. WTF!
I centre
and realise the time is now 3am, and I have almost made it back to the hotel.
Getting my sense and sensibility back, a seriously beautiful girl called
‘Victoria’ propositions me - and when I refuse, she hands me her calling-card =
“Come up some time and see me”! (Which is the correct quotation). Walking away
I cannot believe that I have just had 3 offers within as many hours, none of
them sought nor wanted. Back inside
Cheung King Mansions the Indian guy is still open for business, so I take a
samosa and a couple of other interesting looking snacks before heading to bed.
The next
day happens all too soon, and I really do have a hangover … what was it I did
last night. Oh yes, I bought a new phone, and spend a while trying to take a
picture with it. I get a great video of my feet by chance before coming to the
conclusion that Sony Ericsson’s menu system is even more fuckwitted than
Nokia’s – this being the only reason I changed brands. I drink a lot of water
and try a coffee, before considering how and when I will travel back to China
Mainland today? I already know the alternative ferry to Shunde Port is fully
booked because of the Buddha’s Birthday, so it really is the long trek via KTR
and Lo Wu to catch a coach = ‘thrilling, not’. I head-off around 10 am so as to
miss the lunchtime rush, and things go pretty well. I make it through Lo Wu
Customs in Shenzhen just before midday, and the coach I need to catch is
waiting to pull out. Everything is going well until the skies open and an
accident delays us for an hour. Still, I make Foshan around 3.30, and by 4pm am
on the local bus to Gaogong. I arrive at 4.50, which means it is too late in
the day to make the Police office and register. Therefore I get off the coach
at a mini-mart I have not tried before, and buy a couple of items and food for
Be Loi. I consider visiting the wet market before deciding that it is time I
was home again and seeing to my little girl (Canine version). The ferry is on
the other shore as usual, so I walk to a local shop near the main road and buy
a couple of the largest size Chinese holdalls. I probably don’t need them, but
they will always come in useful and are there ready if needs be. I add a bottle
of orange juice as I am still dehydrated from last nights events, and finish it
before reaching the ferry.
The walk
from the ferry to my home is fine, even though my pack is quite heavy. The air
is clean and fresh, and it is not raining for a change! I get my keys ready
just before announcing my arrival to a sleeping Be Loi – and she is cocker-hoop
to see me. Ahhh! It’s good to be home. I won’t bore you with minuté but simply
add that normal things happened as you would imagine…
After a
sound sleep we both awaken around 6.30 am. This would be Saturday 22nd
May 2010 then. I get into serious packing mode after checking emails and the
like. Be Loi is helpful in a young dog sort of way, and is very made-up when I
give her Pedigree and biscuits bought in
Saturn’s
Day turns out to be a bit odd, as whilst I work and Be Loi does her doggy girl
stuff; both of us have realised there is an elephant in the corner of the room
that isn’t going away! Meanwhile I have just about consolidated all the packing
to the front door, with the option open to move on Monday remaining open and
hassle-free. Here is an insight: When I Chinese person says “we will move house
tomorrow if the weather is ok”, this implies there is a very good chance that
the weather will not be ok. Understood? Therefore I need to hedge my bets and
keep things a little open today.
The evening
and the morning become the next day, and again we are both awake early. I look
outside and give Be Loi some more
Moving On
I am
awakened by the ringing of my phone, and clock the time is a little after 7am.
Yesterday I was wide awake and ready for action at this time. Unfortunately
today I am asleep and feeling groggy. For some inexplicable reason my wife has
decided to speak Toisanwah to me today, a language I am still baffled by. I do
pick up the mention of 90 minutes, and infer this means she is leaving in 90
minutes. I work to this schedule, and go and play with the computer for an
hour. I still have to pack the pc, monitor, a few sundries like wireless modem,
and the like + a little bit of stuff in the kitchen. Everything else is already
sorted, so I reason it is 10 minutes work = half an hour or so. Nonplussed I
reply to emails and get ready to switch off and start work.
This would
be about the time when a large blue truck appears outside my gate and it honks
its horn…
I
immediately look out of the window and Siu Ying waves to me. I guess that means
that from her phonecall – she will be here in 90 minutes then! Shit! I am not
ready at all, and still cannot fathom why she didn’t say something simple to me
in normal Cantonese. Hey-Ho – let’s go with this.
I am met at
the door by Ricky Rocket the Removal Man, who immediately proceeds to pick up
boxes and throw them in the back of the truck. Meanwhile I head outside to
greet my wife – who is off chasing Be Loi. What theatrics they enjoy before
returning home and getting involved … both of them! I give Siu Ying a kiss, a roll
of extra large Sellotape, a knife, and point her to the immediately open and
unpacked things downstairs. Fortunately Mr. Big Boss, who is the driver of the truck,
calls a luncheon break. Suits us fine as I head upstairs to turn off the
computer and pack all its component pieces. Completing my work very quickly, I
head downstairs with the last of the small boxes to find Siu Ying setting about
the refrigerator – good girl. I think she is quite impressed with my work
although fails to mention the fact. I Sellotape a couple more boxes and then
Ricky Rocket reappears. I am concerned he has not been briefed on everything
that is to be taken, as is confirmed when I carry out our Calor gas cylinder.
The truck is nicely full already with only a few items left to go. However I
call a halt and show Ricky upstairs, where a couple of large boxes and two
desks are waiting. He immediately grasps the problem and returning downstairs
with some stuff, he then informs the Big Boss, who starts re-organising the
already packed good.
This buys
us a few minutes and returning inside I notice Siu Ying has finished with the
fridge and is now checking everything else. I finish preparing Be Loi’s food,
as Uncle is not due here until tomorrow sometime. I also replenish her water
and lay out a couple of doggy chews for her to find. Meanwhile Siu Ying has
found a couple of pillows and some rags. I show her the two holdalls I bought
on Friday, and one is soon filled and taken to the truck. See, I knew they
would come in useful! The truck has gone to turn round somewhere down the lane,
so we complete moving everything outside the gate ready for its return. Be Loi
has gone missing! The truck reappears and everything is loaded. Just as I begin
to worry, Be Loi rocks up as if nothing had happened, so we close the gate with
her inside, and lock-up the house for the final time. It’s a bit chaotic really,
and we are off before we know it, with Be Loi left on guard.
Please note
that the Elephant is still in the corner of the room, and I discuss with Siu
Ying on several occasions if she is going or not? Technically Be Loi is her
dog, not mine. Each time she replies that it is up to me. Thanks! Over the
preceding months we have talked about this quite a lot, without total
resolution. Siu Ying’s first suggestion was to take her to live with ‘An
Auntie’ at her Mother’s village. At first this appealed to us both, as she
would have a similar lifestyle to her present one, and we would still see her
often. However, over the last year I did notice that all the fully-grown young
dogs had disappeared, with only a couple of old ones still remaining. The area
is well known for eating dog, and I could not take the risk – especially as
‘The Auntie’ always remained some indefinite person? Eventually I cancelled
this idea, and the follow-up was she return to the restaurant she came from,
which is also not an option. There were a couple of other ideas, non of which
we thought were any good – so it comes down to only two: she moves with us to
Toisan; or remains and is looked after by Uncle when he moves in. She knows
Uncle and likes him, plus with him bringing his own puppy things in her life
should remain quite stable. As we are locking up I ask Siu Ying a final time,
and she says Be Loi stays, and so it come to pass. I am not happy with this all
the same, and would prefer her to come with us, but apartment city life is total
culture shock for a dog that is used to roaming free in the countryside. She
has absolutely no idea what traffic is for a start and would probably get run
over, unless I can train her to the lead – but then, that in itself is a new
way of life and not one she has ever experienced.
So the gate
closes and I expect Uncle to open it tomorrow and start moving his own
belongings in quite soon. I say goodbye to this dog and wish her well, then
climb aboard and we head off to the ferry, which is due shortly, and our new
life in Toisan.
Endnote
It was my
original intention to write the whole of our moving experience in one go this
time, but this has already become one of my longest missives. Therefore I have
decided to break the story here, which will continue in the next missive
entitled ‘Toisan Times’.
Thank you
Jonno